Political unease, higher prices felt miles from Canadian boarder.
Hard work and honesty Life on a family dairy farm in Vermont
John Jenkins Jr., 6, uses his pedal tractor to help his dad feed hay to the cows at the Hard Climb Farm & Stand. Stan Grossfeld/Globe Staff

Political unease, higher prices felt miles from Canadian boarder.
Every day for 6-year-old John Jenkins Jr. is sunny side up.
He’s a superhero running nonstop at the Hard Climb Farm & Stand, a family-owned dairy operation in the Northeast Kingdom, just 10 miles from the Canadian border.
“He’s a wild man,” said John’s mother, Kellie Jenkins. “He’s the one who does the tours when people come here on the farm. He’ll tell you all about it, show off all his animals.
“When he was born, he was given his first cow, and it was registered in his name. So now he owns six animals. So, he’s pretty proud of that,” she added.
Jenkins says he shows the dairy cows through the 4-H club.
John Jenkins Jr., 6, at the Hard Climb Farm hangs out with the twin calves and a cat, that belongs to Amish neighbors but lives to visit.
John Jenkins Jr., 6, at the Hard Climb Farm hangs out with the twin calves and a cat, that belongs to Amish neighbors but lives to visit.Stan Grossfeld/Globe Staff
“He’s got all his little fun ribbons, but he’s one of the kiddos that is the most helpful,” she said. “He sees poop under a cow, the one’s not his, and he’ll go help scrape it up. He’s a big helper around the farm here. He loves to be with his dad, loves living on the farm.”
The 48-acre farm raises cows, chickens, ducks, and quail. They sell the milk and eggs along with maple products and local handmade items, in a small, enclosed farm stand. It is open 24/7 and is unattended. Jenkins says it successfully operates on the honor system.
“I don’t think we’ve ever gotten hugely stiffed. Maybe a couple of bucks here or there because people don’t know how to do math,” she said. “But everything seems to be working out.”
They have a camera at the stand, she says, gesturing toward the ceiling. “We want to extend the honesty and trust to the community, and that goes a long way.”
Kellie Jenkins Jr., the Hard Climb Farm Stand, logs in raw milk and eggs to be sold on the honor system.
Kellie Jenkins Jr., the Hard Climb Farm Stand, logs in raw milk and eggs to be sold on the honor system. Stan Grossfeld/Globe Staff
The clientele that rides by their farm, on Route 100, is eclectic. There’s the Amish who settled nearby and use horse and buggies to clip-clop along at 10 miles per hour. There’s city folk in SUVs and trucks zipping to a local ski resort, and there’s also the Quebec neighbors.
There’s no doubt Canadians have been shaken by both the tariff talk and the overall tone of the Trump administration.
“Anybody who comes here and who might bring up that conversation, my husband automatically apologizes like, ‘This isn’t right. None of this is,’ ” she said. The family welcomes them all. One of the rules posted on the wall reads “Mind our own biscuits.”
The political uncertainty is also bad for business, Jenkins says.
Mud season at the Hard Climb Farm and Stand.
Mud season at the Hard Climb Farm and Stand. Stan Grossfeld/Globe Staff
“It’s pinched us for a little bit where nobody wanted to come over across the border,” she said. “I think it’s easing back a little bit. I think people are like, ‘You know what? It is what it is.’ We’ll see how the summer goes.
On Easter Sunday the close-knit family all worked together to milk and feed the 45 milking cows and clean the barn.
Touring with John Jr. is fun. Mud doesn’t faze him. He’s been adopted by a cat that belongs to an Amish family down the road, that follows him around. He’ll warn you to stay clear of the bull who likes to poke people, as he climbs around the barn like it’s a jungle gym.
John Jenkins Jr., 6, with the baby chicks he helps raise.
John Jenkins Jr., 6, with the baby chicks he helps raise. Stan Grossfeld/Globe Staff
A chicken roosts at the Hard Climb Farm in a makeshift greenhouse coop.
A chicken roosts at the Hard Climb Farm in a makeshift greenhouse coop.Stan Grossfeld/Globe Staff
He likes to kiss the baby chicks before returning them to warming lights. He’s got a bicycle tractor that he uses to haul hay, and he follows his dad around doing chores, including milking the cows.
The farm sells raw milk, which is tested to meet state regulations. As part of the rules, people who buy it must leave their contact information.
“Raw milk is real milk, straight from our cows,” Jenkins said. “We drink it, and my son’s grown up on it. There’s a lot of research out there, so people can make their own determinations.‘’
They also sell fresh chicken, duck, and quail eggs.
Kellie Jenkins talks about her dairy cows at the Hard Climb Farm. Of concerns about bacteria in the raw milk, she says: We're going to always promote real milk and things like that. But I understand if people are weary. There are good and bad bacterias. It's the bad bacteria that really get people concerned. Ours is tested ….we’ve never had any concerns from our customer base.”
Kellie Jenkins talks about her dairy cows at the Hard Climb Farm. Of concerns about bacteria in the raw milk, she says: We’re going to always promote real milk and things like that. But I understand if people are weary. There are good and bad bacterias. It’s the bad bacteria that really get people concerned. Ours is tested ….we’ve never had any concerns from our customer base.”Stan Grossfeld/Globe Staff
“The egg scare was something else,” Jenkins said, referring to recent shortages and rising prices.
“We couldn’t keep our eggs on the shelf. … Ours are still only $6 a dozen, which is still reasonable. People were totally understanding.”
She believes the egg scare is over, but ”we’ll see.”
Life isn’t easy in the Kingdom, but it sure is beautiful.
“We’re a small, genuine family farm,” she said. “I think we’re going to stay in it as long as we can, as long as it makes sense.‘’
John Jenkins Jr., 6, feeding some of the 45 milking cows on the Farm.
John Jenkins Jr., 6, feeding some of the 45 milking cows on the Farm. Stan Grossfeld/Globe Staff
She also works full time as a director at Ready, Set, Grow Childcare, in Newport, Vt., to help make ends meet.
Now she watches as John Jr. reclines on his tractor, like he’s doing a celebrity shoot for Vanity Fair.
“It’s a great place to raise a kid… Here, it’s all manual labor. Our best friend is a shovel and a pitchfork and a wheelbarrow.”
John Jenkins Jr., 6, takes the neighbor's cat for a ride after all the chores are done.John Jenkins Jr., 6, takes the neighbor’s cat for a ride after all the chores are done.Stan Grossfeld/Globe Staff

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